Filtering by Tag: New York

Sushi Ginza Onodera, Midtown, New York

Added on January 5, 2017 by kekodesu.

Cost: $400/person, before drinks, tax, tip
Size: 15 seats at counter, plus tables
Style: tsumami + sushi omakase
Reserved: 2 weeks in advance

The phenomenon of high-end restaurants that originate in one global city and are exported elsewhere is not unique to Japanese cuisine (for example: Carbone, one of NYC's most highly-regard American-Italian restaurants, has a very successful Hong Kong outpost). But many established Japanese restaurant brands are particularly laser-focused on preserving the standards of their original shops (or honten) when new locations are opened abroad. As a case-in-point, it took famous tonkotsu ramen chain Ichiran nearly eight years of decision-making before they could finally open in Brooklyn.

This is certainly true in the case of high-end sushi chain Ginza Onodera which boasts locations in Tokyo, London, Paris, Shanghai, Honolulu, and now, New York (a Los Angeles location is also opening soon). All chefs train first at the Tokyo honten before opening new branches, and there is particular focus on sourcing wild, seasonal neta, much of it direct from Japan. This last feature results in the very-Ginza-level price point described above. While a $300-400/head omakase meal may cause sticker shock in the US, these price levels are not unusual at sushiya in international cities like Hong Kong, Bangkok and Singapore that insist on competing with Tokyo sushiya to source top neta direct from Tsukiji. It is really only novel in the US because US sushiya tend to utilize fish from all over the world (such as maguro from Spain or Canada, or hirame from Long Island) and even when sourcing from Japan, may rely heavily on farmed rather than the prized wild fish trafficked by the most highly-regarded export companies. To put it another way, a dogmatic focus on wild neta at peak shun (seasonality) has, partially for cultural reasons, been a lesser focus amongst US diners versus affordability. But with current explosion of high-end sushiya in the US and New York in particular, this is changing.

With this in mind, it should come as no surprise that Onodera's New York branch features arguably the highest-quality neta available in the US. It is typical to find items there that are all but impossible at other US sushiya (again, partially driven by the price point), such as early-season tokishirazu (large chum salmon) or matsukawa karei. A few months ago, it was the only place in NYC where you could consistently find aji from Awaji Island, one of the most famous source regions for this fish at its peak fattiness during the summer. Likewise, this past December, it was the only New York sushiya offering maguro from Oma, the most prized origin point for tuna at its peak fattiness during the wintertime.

But there is more to Onodera than simply top-quality neta - indeed, the fact that a higher price point can source more expensive fish shouldn't really be very surprising. Onodera is one of the few US sushiya I know of focusing on shari that is strongly flavored with akazu with a notable vinegar tone (Yoshizumi is another). While this style is currently quite fashionable in Tokyo, some American diners find the stronger vinegar taste distracting or too sour, and some sushiya are afraid they might scare away customers by taking such a leap. In my opinion, it is a welcome addition in the US, as shari with notable distinct character is sometimes difficult to come by in this country.

Though Masaki Saito, the chef at Onodera New York, is only in his late-twenties, he brings a wealth of experience from his early days training in Hokkaido as well as previously opening the Onodera branch in Shanghai. And what he delivers stylistically is indeed unique and interesting. For example, rather than searing some kinmedai to amplify its fat and oil (as many sushiya do), he ages it a week or more and then cures it konbujime-style, firming its rich flesh and concentrating the flavors beyond the simple sweet taste of fat. And precision is at a level that is rare to find in the US: to maintain consistency, shari is only delivered in batches large enough for a few rounds of nigiri. When fish are grilled (such as kamasu or kinki), they are not blasted with a gas blowtorch, but instead skewered over charcoal.

While dinner at Onodera necessitates an expense account, a special occasion, or both, lunch (at $130/person) is a relative bargain. It is in some respects, both in form and substance, the closest one can get to Japan at a US sushiya, for all the reasons I've outlined above. I look forward to continuing to visit to observe Saito-san's evolution as a rising star itamae.

Sushi Ginza Onodera New York

461 5th Ave., New York, NY

https://onodera-group.com/en/

Ushiwakamaru, Chelsea, New York

Added on October 19, 2015 by netashari.

Cost: ~$150/person, before drinks, tax and tip
Size: 16 seats at counter + dining room
Style: few otsumami + sushi omakase
Reserved: 2 weeks in advance

New York City is blessed with a number of what I would call "second-tier" sushiya that offer serious technique in a more casual setting, at a lower price point supported by "very good" but perhaps not "top" neta quality. As I have noted elsewhere, my personal enjoyment at a sushiya relies much more on the overall balance of flavors and chef technique rather than pure ingredient quality. This is also true in Japan - some of the highest-rated sushiya on tabelog (Sushi Nanba and Miyakozushi) are more casual spots that provide an excellent mix of variety and technique, but perhaps not the "best" neta quality. (Of course, we are mincing words a bit here, as a meal at the above sushiya is still in the hundreds of $USD, and there is really no fair comparison between many US and Japanese sushiya).

Ushiwakamaru certainly falls into this category. It is beloved by regulars as much for the accessible environment and its table service as it is for high-quality, serious sushi. Though the restaurant's most recent move from the West Village to Chelsea has resulted in a turn towards more modernist décor and a longer sushi counter, the overall experience is as consistent as ever.

A big part of the popularity of the shop is that its head chef, Hideo Kuribara, has a fairly traditionalist approach to omakase. On my most recent visit, tsumami included house-made konnyaku and shiokara (one of the chef's specialties). The kanpyo, a barometer of any serious shop, was also house-made.

The shari at Ushiwakamaru is typically of great consistency, with fairly large grain size, and also fairly dry (as I've mentioned before, this is one of my preferred styles for shari). It is slightly warm. From a consistency perspective, it performed better than a number of "higher-end" sushiya mentioned on this website.

The neta quality is not the absolute "top", and this was apparent from tasting items like the uni, certain hikarimono and the anago. But other items, such as a triple-layered nigiri of "gomo"-saba, or local hamaguri (a trend at NY sushiya these days) were truly excellent. The maguro, sourced from Canada (I am unsure if it was farmed), had a distinctive sweetness that is uncommon in Atlantic Bluefin. And the offering of several unusual cuts of maguro, such as hagashi (cut from between the back belly sinews) and sekami (from the "shoulder") made for excellent additions to the meal.

The one oddity in my most recent experience was that the chefs, including Hideo-san, all wore plastic gloves. It's unclear if this was due to the fact that the shop had newly reopened and was being extra cautious for any unannounced DOH-visits or for something else. It made for nigiri construction and balance that sometimes a little bit off. But this was really only a minor issue. Hopefully it is not a permanent fixture.

Ushiwakamaru is a spot with great sushi, great chefs, and a really fun environment (worth noting that most chefs are very happy for you to share a beer or sake with them). More importantly, the technique level is quite high and the sushi is fairly traditional in form and presentation. It certainly stands as a great spot for omakase in New York.

Ushiwakamaru

362 W. 23rd St., New York

http://www.yelp.com/biz/ushiwakamaru-new-york-4

NY Sushi Ko, Lower East Side, New York

Added on April 2, 2015 by kekodesu.

Note: NY Sushi Ko no longer allows photos. The picture above is from an earlier visit when the shop first opened.

Cost: $115-$190, before drinks, tax, and tip
Size: 10 seats at counter, one small table
Style: otsumami + sushi omakase
Reserved: 2 weeks in advance

Perhaps the biggest endorsement of a sushi chef's skill and influence is how many of his itamae go on to open successful shops of their own. In Tokyo, there are masters like Jiro Ono, Shinji Kanesaka and Keiji Nakazawa, whose disciples have opened numerous critically-acclaimed spin-offs. In New York, a few of Masa Shimizu's itamae have gotten acclaim for their own shops.

Sushi Ko is run by John Daley, who trained under Shimizu for several years and then spent time in Tokyo working under Shimizu's master to further hone his skills. He is essentially a one-man band, which is an extraordinary achievement for a sushi chef at this level, and quite rare. Everything from fish-cleaning to rice preparation is done without assistants.

There are basically two options - a 15-piece sushi omakase or a larger meal that includes two otsumami, soup, and sashimi alongside the nigiri. The level of precision and technique is high: the consistency of rice and balance of neta/shari is excellent and steady throughout the meal. There is particular attention to the temperature of specific neta, which is a rarity in US sushiya. Like at 15 East, the shari is fairly dry, lightly seasoned, and served at body temperature. The neta quality is very good, and is probably most visible through the beautiful sashimi plates that John prepares.

The best parts of a meal at Sushi Ko are where Chef John moves just outside of the expected, whilst remaining within the paradigm of traditional sushi. For example, in honor of hanami season recently, several nigiri featured neta that had been expertly smoked over Japanese cherry wood. Kohada served without skin, and very lightly cured, was a completely new taste for me, and truly excellent. One notable dish from my memory is a "triple toro" tsumami featuring negitoro, crisped toro skin, and melted otoro fat over crispy rice.

The "one-man-band" aspect of Sushi Ko comes with its own idiosyncrasies. With one chef serving otsumami, arranging sashimi, and forming nigiri, the wait between bites can sometimes be as long as 10-15 minutes. And neta that takes a disproportionate amount of time to prepare (anago, tamago, various shellfish) is notably absent from the menu. I don't consider these to be major negatives, but they are aspects of the experience worth noting.

In some ways, my earlier and later visits to Sushi Ko have been a study in contrasts. When the shop first opened, there was a bit of sense of whimsy whilst still adhering fairly closely to traditional sushi flavors. The omakase featured 5-6 creative otsumami rather than two, and John's attitude was enthusiastic and boisterous. More recently, the environment - whilst still retaining a few more subtle flashes of creativity - was much more serious, somber, and even dour. When I asked the chef to choose some add-on nigiri to my recent omakase I was told I was "quizzing him". Personally, I preferred the former attitude.

Sushi Ko is at the high end of the cost range compared to other top sushiya in New York and North America. As an example, I was billed a flat $45 charge for 4 additional nigiri after the omakase had ended (three of which, at the chef's selection, were repeats). I will leave others to decide if this pricing is an appropriate reflection of the shop's omakase offerings. Personally, I am a bit torn - when the shop first opened, I found there were enough unique surprises to represent a more differentiated experience; but on recent visits, the overall meal was more difficult to distinguish from other high-end in America. Not that this takes away from the quality or seriousness of the shop, but it definitely has an impact on my personal preference.

NY Sushi Ko

91 Clinton St., New York

http://www.newyorksushiko.com/

Sushi Dojo, East Village, New York

Added on February 27, 2015 by kekodesu.

Note: As of December 2015, David Bouhadana has left Sushi Dojo. My comment represent my experiences while he was head chef there.

Cost: $70-$100, before drinks, tax, and tip
Size: 10 seats at counter
Style: sushi omakase
Reserved: 1 week in advance

David Bouhadana is a young guy, but his time as a sushi chef stretches back for the better part of a decade. He spent time training at a sushiya in kansai ("in the middle of nowhere, near Osaka", he says) and returned to NYC in 2009 to open a short-lived shop on the Lower East Side. He then returned to Japan for some time and after, spent more than a year as one of Masa Shimizu's itamae at 15 East. He branched off on his own to open Sushi Dojo almost two years ago.

I mention all of this because Dojo, like some other more casual American sushiya, is pretty unassuming. From the outside, it looks like a neighborhood spot run by a white a guy. If you buy David-san a beer (as many customers are apt to do), he might take a small sip and make a Thundercats-esque "power-up" pose before resuming slicing neta. All of this belies the fact that Sushi Dojo (like the name implies) provides quite an authentic omakase experience.

There is no procession of artfully-planned otsumami as part of the omakase, and the menu looks to be crafted to equally satisfy those looking for authentic nigiri sushi as well as more casual diners. The best option is to simply sit at the counter and ask for nigiri. While the neta quality is perhaps not quite at the level of NYC's top sushiya, the variety of offerings is surprisingly wide - multiple types of uni, hikari mono, and various cuts of maguro are standard. The value for such variety and quality is probably the best in NYC, and potentially anywhere else in America.

The nigiri style is on the smaller side, but this does not impact the neta-shari balance, which is very good. The shari is of a medium-large grain size and moderately seasoned; it is generally well-prepared, but on average a little less firm than I prefer. The knife skills are also very good - slicing-styles that are the hallmark of more skilled sushi chefs (such as multiple thin layers of neta on saba nigiri) are apparent throughout the meal. Seasoning is also quite traditional, though a few excellent flourishes (such as aburi-uni temaki with yuzu kosho, or a gunkan-maki featuring a ponzu-marinated oyster) make infrequent appearances throughout the omakase. Theatrics notwithstanding, a live scallop that was opened, gutted and sliced before my eyes was every bit as sweet and succulent as you might expect.

Sushi Dojo is clearly targeted as a more casual experience than some of NYC's top sushiya, and the price point, omakase ingredients, and atmosphere of the shop all reflect that focus. If Ichimura, for example, is the kind of place you might only visit on a special occasion, Dojo is the shop that you could go to on a monthly basis. The skill behind the counter, overall value, and quality of neta offered certainly makes Dojo worthy of a visit alongside those other top shops.

Sushi Dojo

110 1st Ave., New York

http://sushidojonyc.com/

Shuko, Union Square, New York

Added on January 25, 2015 by kekodesu.

Cost: $135-$175, before drinks, tax, and tip
Size: 20 seats at counter
Style: kaiseki + sushi omakase
Reserved: 3 weeks in advance

The best way I can describe Shuko is as a distinctly American omakase restaurant. I mean that as a compliment: the ingredients and technique are at a high level, and there is a serious reverence for authentic Japanese flavors. It's just that the experience is completely different than what one might expect at sushiya in Japan. Even overtly designating a restaurant as "omakase-only" seems like an American concept - at Japanese sushiya where omakase is the only option, this is more a function of tradition and the small number of seats and staff, rather than a philosophical choice on the part of the chef.

Shuko's head chefs Nick Kim and Jimmy Lau first met at Masa, and it's clear Masa Takayama's style of combining luxury ingredients and creative flavors within a traditional kaiseki/sushi paradigm is their major influence. Kawagishi toro, for example, is served with a generous dollop of osetra caviar and a slice of housemade milk bread. Unlike almost every other high-end Japanese restaurant in the US, Shuko actually makes the proper distinction between "kaiseki" and "sushi" menus, and offers two choices: a kaiseki-like procession of otsumami followed by sushi, or sushi only.

Of the kaiseki items several dishes stood out on my visit: the aforementioned toro dish, and a yakimono plate of grilled lobster with shards of bacon, shiitakes and shaved black truffles. More authentic and equally excellent was an intensely-flavored honshimeji mushroom broth. Some of the other dishes, like chunks of braised veal shank (perhaps a riff on kakuni) were well-prepared but a bit too large and monotonous flavor-wise.

It was not surprising that in a meal that begins with eight decent-sized kaiseki plates, the nigiri are on the smaller side - so small, in fact, that the balance varies from piece to piece - not a major issue, but also an oversight. The neta is generally of high quality, and I was impressed by the variety available on my visit, which included first-of-season hotaru ika. The shari was not terribly notable, but well-prepared and of very good consistency (i.e. in most pieces rice grains were fairly firm and distinctive). Minor technical elements, such as ensuring crisp nori with various maki, were on point. The most enjoyable moments of my meal were the "inauthentic" flashes of creativity, like a slice of grilled otoro sinew topped with chilies and ponzu, and wrapped in a sheet of nori.

The operation at Shuko is quite different than a Japanese sushiya, where one master might work with 1-3 assistants to serve 6-10 customers at a time. In contrast, the counter at Shuko seats 20, with 4-5 chefs (not assistants) working at any given time. My impression was that all of the itamae are equally capable of providing an excellent experience, and there is no real "premium" for being served by either of the head chefs.

As an experience that melds traditional and nontraditional ingredients, it's tough to draw a comparison between Shuko and some of New York's other top shops (like Ichimura, or 15 East) that more closely represent the experience at a sushiya in Japan. But Shuko is nonetheless a worthwhile experience, and given the volume of food and quality, an excellent value when compared alongside other high-end sushiya in America.

Shuko

47 E. 12th St., New York

http://www.shukonyc.com/